The sense of natural
When people ask me to define natural wine, I have this abiding image of myself taking a hammer and trying to nail jelly to a wall. Definitions are always beset…
Spotlight on: Domaine Arretxea
Michel Riouspeyrous is a native Basque. He met his Alsatian future wife Thérèse while on a charity mission to Africa. On their return to France, they got married and decided…
Orange Wines & Tasting in 3-D
If amber wines were music, they would be as live performances, fuzzy, rough-edged and unpredictable. Their tactility means that you can touch them at the same time as they touch…
Sustain & Sustainability
I was one of the guests at a brilliantly-organised Zoom presentation arranged by The Pig at Harlyn Bay. The presentation itself centred around ideas of sustainability and organic farming, developing…
An appreciation of Dominique Belluard
It is with enormous sadness that we have learned that Dominique Belluard of Domaine Belluard has passed away. We would like to remember him as the brilliant vigneron he was,…
Spotlight on: Mas Foulaquier
Pierre Jéquier was an architect, but his passion for wine and the desire to work close to nature led him to the life of the vigneron. After a lot of…
Farewell, Terroirs! (2008 – 2021)
A personal reminiscence It has been officially announced that Terroirs, born in 2008 at the height of the recession in William IV Street WC2, is to close its doors and…
Natural Enjoyment
The beautiful contractions of inconsistency One of my memories of 2020 is how many good wines I drank over the twelvemonth. I would classify all of those as naturally-made, notwithstanding…
The Long Read: “I smell red”
Check out or previous Long Read, 'I See Red'! Smell, or olfaction to give its scientific appellation, is so important when we are talking about associations, memories and epiphanies. Smell…
Decanting: Vigneti Tardis “Giovedi”
Vigneti Tardis is a collaboration between Jack Lewens (former sommelier and now co-owner of Leroy in Shoreditch) and his long-time friend, Bruno de Conciliis of Viticoltori de Conciliis, the master…
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