It takes a village to raise a fair

2024 saw the ninth iteration of the Real Wine Fair and the eighth edition to take place at Tobacco Dock in Wapping. Although we have tweaked certain elements and forever sought to improve the tasting experience for growers and fair-goers alike, the format has largely remained the same and the rationale has certainly not changed. In essence, this is a celebration of wines from grapes that have been farmed organically, biodynamically and regeneratively and brought to bottle with minimal intervention from small hands-on artisan growers and producers.

As after every fair, we are overflowing with the wine of human gratitude, and the 2024 has given us so many reasons to be thankful to so many people.

Without all the component parts, the Real Wine Fair wouldn’t be what it is. So, (deep breath), here we go!

Of growers and wines

It is important to observe that this has always been a growers’ fair. The wines are, after all, the people who are pouring them, the result of hundreds of choices and decisions over the vintage, of shedding blood, sweat and occasional tears, the sum of traditions and innovation alike, the culture and philosophy of individuals and the respective regions in which they operate. As a result, the fair positively showcases diversity. Vignerons from twenty different countries come to pour and talk about their wines, each with their own personal experience, and with a particular story to tell. The wines are intended to connect the drinker to grape, soil, climate, vintage, farming and process. There are many ways to do this, but when we taste and drink these wines we often sense their origin (even if we have never been to the vineyard from which they come) and their energy (they are alive).

If we are angling for a definition then The Real Wine Fair is a loose affiliation of vignerons who work in a similar idiom and in much the same spirit to produce wines of whatness: the intrinsic quality of something that makes it what it is and different from other things. In other words, when you taste certain wines, you sense their uniqueness.

In 2024, a lot of new faces were in evidence, not only growers making their fair debut, but the next generation of producers taking the reins at established estates.

This year, the growers–180+ of them from 20 countries–journeyed to a shivering Blighty to pour their many wines (around 1000 to my estimate). Standing up for hours on end, talking until they were hoarse, smiling, and getting RSI of the pouring wrist. Certain individuals fought through jet lag, illness, and extreme exhaustion. In 2024, a lot of new faces were in evidence, not only growers making their fair debut, but the next generation of producers taking the reins at established estates. The first incarnation of The Real Wine Fair in 2012 was overwhelmingly male; the balance has been markedly redressed over the years and this year it was a pleasure to see the number of young female vigneronnes at the helm.

A note about the wines. I have previously quoted Pascaline Lepeltier’s observation about there being a natural wine for every taste and personality type. This year, more than ever, I felt that to be the case. The wines were really excellent. Of course, there were a few weird things and the odd mousy bottle, but these were the exception. The criticism of natural wine fairs has always that natural wine fans excuse wine faults in favour of a notion of Platonic wine purity. And that all tastes for the best in the best of all possible taste worlds.

If you were unfavourably disposed towards natural wines because you had heard that they were honking with funk, then you might have been surprised how drinkable the vast majority of wines on show were.

If I had to describe an overall direction in which natural wines are moving, I would assert – with a little hesitation because I hate generalising – “towards freshness.” Most of the wines I tried had a satisfying snap to them. Even those where texture was key (such as amber wines) seemingly had dialled-down phenolics. I don’t know whether this perceived quality is down to the new generation of vignerons taking over the winemaking operations and imprinting their preferred style, or whether it is part of a wider desire to make wines that are more balanced. If you were unfavourably disposed towards natural wines because you had heard that they were honking with funk, then you might have been surprised how drinkable the vast majority of wines on show were. And how good they were as well.

Food and wine partners

There is well-known adage that to make a wine, you need a lot of beer. To make a successful wine fair you need plenty of food for all moods and palates from oysters to raclette, and from home cured charcuterie to hand made pasta (and cuttlefish hot dogs – who knew!), and heck of a lot of coffee. And beer at the end of the day. Although I did spot one grower having a pint at 10.00am! The Real Wine Fair has always been about creating an experience beyond merely tasting wine. We always want you, dear visitor, to enjoy the wines, naturally, but also to enjoy the day itself.

We often lose sight of this in the hurly-burly of selling and the desire to increase turnover at all costs. Perhaps the ultimate objective of the Real Wine Fair is to make everyone (consumers, trade, growers) feel good about wine.

We also extend our thanks to our partners-in-real-wine, the other eight importers who brought their growers to the fair and helped to promote the event itself. Such collaborations remind us that wine may be used to express hospitality and to forge friendships. We often lose sight of this in the hurly-burly of selling and the desire to increase turnover at all costs. Perhaps the ultimate objective of the Real Wine Fair is to make everyone (consumers, trade, growers) feel good about wine.

Talking about wine – wine workshops

Thinking that a change is as good as a rest, we renamed the masterclasses “wine workshops”. Whatever they were, this year’s roster of topics included subjects as various as “What is Taste: How to communicate information by telling stories about wine”; “The surging Lisbon natural wine scene”; “The philosophy of natural farming and natural winemaking as espoused by two great Alsace growers”; and “An exploration of hybrids and regenerative farming and how they can be use in climate change”. Special mention to two Christinas. Chrissie Rasmussen for compering two of the workshops and Christina Pickard for hosting one and contributing to another. And to all those (Alice Feiring, Honey Spencer, Ines Salpico and the Portuguese growers, Jean-Pierre Frick, Christian Binner, Heidi Nam Knudsen, Deirdre Heekin, and Richard Woodfine) who chatted so engagingly and informatively about their favourite subjects.

Shop till you pop (the cork)

2024 was a record-breaking year for wine and merch sales for the shop team.

The Real Wine Shop has been one of the most important features of the fair. Where else can you try (wine) before buy? It is also a lovely thing to have a memento or several to remind oneself of a grower one has met or a particular taste experience.

2024 was a record-breaking year for wine and merch sales for the shop team and lavish praise must go to Tim Peyton, Pete Badrick and Nini (and Will Johnston) for managing the tills (which sadly don’t say ker-ching anymore) and to Pete and Anthony shuttling endlessly back and forth to replenish the dwindling stock. On Sunday, they were as Spartans holding back the Persian army, surrounded by customers wanting to buy, buy, buy and by the venue security wanting them out, out, out.

The social wine fair

Although friendly and intimate, the fair is a big event with an international reputation, attracting buyers and visitors from around the wine world. As with so many wine festivals, it also provides an opportunity to bump into and catch up with old friends, as well as making new ones. It is growers catching up with grower friends and those who follow them and drink their wines. It is also growers tasting one another’s wines.

If you were to take a snapshot-with-sound of the Real Wine Fair, you would capture the palpable buzz, the sheer sense of engagement, and the vibrant interactions.

To the PR side of things

So many people have given their support in one way or another to the fair. Firstly, our own Christina Pickard, who supervises the socials with indefatigable posting and story sharing. She is an integral part of the fair organisation.  Massive shout out to the following for contributing their considerable social media presence: @ohnaturalwine @thelondonwinegirl @geordiewineguide @winetimelondon as well as @winewithjimmy @drjamiegoode @tomgilbeywine — and many others.

This year was also the year of podcasts that gave natural wine a voice. Considerable thanks go to @interpretingwine (Lawrence Francis); @the_premier_cru (Ben & Hugo); @nosediment (Agnese Gintere); and @wine_blast (Peter & Susie Barrie) for allowing me to spout about The Real Wine Fair and all things natty.

And to Richard Siddle, editor of The Buyer magazine, for his support.

The more astute of you cannot have failed to notice that the PR materials and visual presentation of The Real Wine Fair underwent a major change in 2024, with well-known illustrator Clare Mallison coming on board to revamp our image with her delightful cartoon illustration of the fair at Tobacco Dock, one which now adorns our posters, cards and even our Real Wine tea towels! Clare perfectly captures the colour of the fair and the attendant sense of animated activity between growers and (fair) goers. Our thanks to Clare for bringing about this successful rebrand.

Lastly and certainly not leastly – they could be heroes (for more than two days)

The Real Wine Fair organising team, of course. The preparations for the fair began at the tail end of 2023 with invites going out the growers, preliminary venue visits, and first drafts of images to be used in PR and communication about the fair. It is one thing to bring growers on board with a vague idea of attending the fair, however, another to get final physical confirmations from them, and ideas about what they might want to pour (or what would even be available). Thousands of e-mails were sent, phone calls made, follow-ups on follow-ups. Spreadsheets begat spreadsheets, folders sprouted family trees. This was the fair that launched a thousand forms. Communication has to take place not just with our growers, but with other wine merchants and their growers, and with potential food providers. Topped off with arranging equipment, endless negotiations with the venue about major and minor issues, and ancillary projects such as organising the party for the growers and putting together the details for Real Wine Month.

Thousands of e-mails were sent, phone calls made, follow-ups on follow-ups. Spreadsheets begat spreadsheets, folders sprouted family trees. This was the fair that launched a thousand forms.

From the beginning of the year, it was a full-time job – and because the event was scheduled for April, there was one less month in which to complete the preparations. It was a brilliant collective effort with exhaustive attention to detail. And overflowing reservoirs of patience required! Whether you were a visitor or a wine producer, you may have remarked on the little touches that make a big difference to an event – from the signage to the plentiful water stations, to the smiley efficiency of those at reception. In the words of Rumi: “Meet them at the door laughing and invite them in.”

The biggest thanks of all go to Amy, Vanessa, Elliott and Karen for their incredible efforts and boundless energy. And they were assisted in front and behind the scenes by all the reps and office folk. Calling it a military-style operation makes it sound lacking in the charm and spontaneity (which the fair undoubtedly exudes), yet without the sterling and strenuous efforts of each individual (they know who they are), the Real Wine Fair would not be the apparently seamlessly well run event that it is.