The Ciolli family has owned five (now seven) hectares of vineyards for four generations in Central Italy, south-east of Rome. Before Damiano, his grandfather and his father used to sell their wines in bulk to the nearby capital. When he took charge of the winery in 2001, Damiano immediately focused on quality, persuaded, as he was, that the Cesanese variety could yield very fine wines. In his search to maximise the potential of the grape and the vineyard, he was supported by his family and his partner, Letizia Rocchi, who later obtained a PHD in vine physiology and oenology.
The main body of the 7-ha vineyards is located below Olevano Romano, a village at the foot of Monte Celeste, and these are sheltered by hills on three sides, facing west towards the Tyrrhenian sea and receiving a drying breeze that blows inland each day, reducing humidity and consequent disease pressure. It is here that Cesanese d’Affile, one of the Roman “alveole” grapes, thrives.
The vines are planted on deep red volcanic soil with a south-eastern exposure, 450 metres above sea level in a natural amphitheatre. Silene is obtained from 100% Cesanese d’Affile grapes blended from different vineyard blocks, which are on average 30 years old. Silene is actually named after a wildflower that grows in Damiano Ciolli’s vineyards, Silene vulgaris, recognised by its characteristic balloon shape.
When he took charge of the winery in 2001, Damiano immediately focused on quality, persuaded, as he was, that the Cesanese variety could yield very fine wines.
Damiano and Letizia focus on maintaining the fertility of the soil, which is why they use green manures, as well as biodynamic and organic products in their vineyards. Yields are 1.5-2kg per vine.
Grapes are hand harvested with each of the four blocks fermented separately (ambient, with native yeasts) in concrete vats and the maceration length is about 10 days. After racking, the Silene is aged in concrete vats for a year on its fine lees, after which the separate ferments are blended and bottled and matured for a further three months in bottle. Other than racking, the wine is unfiltered, and no finings are used. Sulphites are kept to a minimum.
This pure Cesanese is ruby red with garnet hues, with a forward nose revealing pleasant fruity aromas of cranberries and pomegranate, dried roses and herbs. The palate is crisp and lean with notes of wild herbs and aromatic spices (think juniper), nicely balanced with good tannins that blend perfectly with a mineral hint. It is versatile with food such as leg of lamb or porchetta, and in summer chilled down as an accompaniment to pizzas or grilled sausages and barbecued mediterranean veg.
2024 Silene Cesanese Rosso
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