Doug decants: Sottobanco Bianco & Alkes Rosato from Andrea Occhipinti

Andrea Occhipinti
Andrea Occhipinti (photo credit: @andre_firenze)

 

Andrea Occhipinti fell in love with the vineyards of Gradoli while he was at the Agrarian University of Tuscia, so much so that they became the subject of his master thesis in 2004. Soon after graduating, Andrea was able to purchase a few hectares of vineyards, planted in the 1990s. They are set at 450 metres above sea level on the volcanic slopes of Lake Bolsena, the biggest volcanic lake in Europe. Situated just one hour north of Rome, the lake provides a unique microclimate that together with the particular terroir and Andrea’s objective to preserve and promote the local indigenous varietals, Aleatico and Grechetto Rosso, produces wines with the flavour of tradition and the effervescence of innovation.

Andrea O works predominantly with Aleatico di Gradoli (the local Aleatico, stylistically a bit more on the delicate and spicier side than the versions from Tuscany), and with Grechetto Rosso (called Grechette due to proximity with Umbria, but part of the Sangiovese family, although it tastes completely different than any Sangiovese you may have tried). These are real wines of terroir, pure and natural. Aleatico is thought to be a dark-skinned relative of Muscat a Petit Grains and is normally used to make passito or fortified wines (the most famous example being the Elba wine: Aleatico di Portoferraio). Dry versions are less common, but Andrea focuses on celebrating this grape on this terroir.

The vineyards, as mentioned, are influenced by Lake Bolsena, never too hot or too cold, very windy and good temperature range between day and night. Soils are of volcanic origin; the vines are oriented south-southwest and lie 450 metres above sea level. Farming is organic with 4,000 plants per hectare, and the vines are 22-year-old, trained doppio capovolto (double bend).

Sottobanco (which means under the table) is 100% Procanico, the local variant of Trebbiano Toscana. Grapes are manually harvested (yields are around 40 hl/ha) and destemmed, undergoing a maceration of 3-4 days with spontaneous fermentation by means of indigenous yeasts in small cement vats. The wine is made without the use of chemical additives, just a modest quantity of sulphites before bottling and is aged for seven months in steel and cement vats and at least two months in the bottle.

The nose conjures meadows and the scent of wild flowers and herbs, accompanied by plenty of dried fruit flavours too (apricot, pear). All in all, a balanced, textural wine with soft fine tannins.

Alkes Rosato is another new wine for us. This is 100% Ciliegiolo with the grapes destemmed, given a maceration of a few hours and then pressed and spontaneously fermented in stainless steel and aged for a further 9 months on the fine lees before bottling with minimal sulphites added.

Lovely vibrant fruit-packed rosé with notes of Mediterranean herbs.

2023 Sottobanco Bianco

2o23 Alkes Rosato

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Interested in finding out more about the wines of Andrea Occhipinti? Contact us directly:

shop@lescaves.co.uk |  sales@lescaves.co.uk | 01483 538820

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