Domaine Jean-François Ganevat – Fanfan garners more fans
“To say that his grapes are spun into gold would not be far from the truth; they are entirely otherworldly.” -Kermit Lynch
Based in La Combe, a tiny hamlet of clickety-click inhabitants above the village of Rotalier, Jean-François Ganevat, aka Fanfan, makes a staggering number of cuvées. Jean-François came back to run the family estate in 1998 after ten years working in Burgundy with Jean-Marc Morey and he combines his passion for the Jura terroir – here ideal for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – with a staunch defence of Burgundian techniques; low yields and most recently biodynamic methods (nettles, dandelion, horsetails, silica etc.) for which he has now gained Demeter certification. Ganevat’s yields are often in the single digits, showing a fanatical attention to quality. Although he works biodynamically and makes all his wines with wild yeast ferments, no temperature control and zero sulphur there is no doubting the superb terroir definition in every one of his wines. Elegant nervy Puligny-esque Chardonnays from centenarian vines on mineral soils that would get the stoniest of Burghounds whiffling appreciatively; oh-so-pale delicate Poulsard with whiplash acidity; intensely mineral Pinot, and wild Trousseau. There is also a vin de soif “Un vin de table fait de bric et de broc” called J’en veux!!!, weighing in at a thirst-allaying 9.5% which happens to be a blend of 17 indigenous grapes.
2009 Pinot Noir « Julien Ganevat » sans souffre
Cuvée Julien is named after the grandfather of Jean-François, and the schistous vineyard from which the Pinot Noir hails was planted partly in 1951, with the remainder of the planting being added in 1977. 2009 is a superb vintage in the Jura and the Cuvée Julien is a terrific wine….one of great vitality, structure and harmony. On the nose the wine is rich in earth and minerals with spicy, red cherry fruits with some redcurrant and light raspberry high tones. It shimmers with pristine clarity and smells so beautifully pure with hints of leather, game, dried flowers, baking spices and stone. Taut, light of body and energetic on the palate with pure, fragrant red cherry and redcurrant fruits. The final linear mineral surge on the palate brings forth an unerring sense of place. Great stuff from Fanfan.
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