The History of Les Caves de Pyrene in 10 ½ Chapters
Introduction A couple of years ago I was in a San Francisco natural wine bar and proffered my card to pay my tab at the end of the evening. The…
Wine Controversies: Mark Ups in Restaurants? Blame the Bean Counters and the Government
Accountants and purchase managers are employed either to protect margins or ratchet up the gps. This usually entails pressing the supplier for greater discounts, trying to prevent price rises, deferring…
Wine Controversies: Wine writing about what consumers want is bunk
Each one of us is a consumer. We express our choices individually and buy we like, or what we can afford. Wine journalists - and people throughout the wine trade…
Doug Decants: Nacho Gonzalez’s La Perdida Wines
Waiting for Godello Nacho Gonzalez farms his family’s vineyard, which his grandmother had worked all her life, and is patiently restoring its vitality. He has also purchased other small plots…
Chatting with: Bronwen Percival of Neal’s Yard Dairy
Bronwen Percival is one of the UK's leading cheese experts. She is Neal's Yard Dairy's buyer and technical manager. She also co-authored, with her husband Francis, the book "Reinventing The…
Wine Controversies: Wine Faults versus Wine Flaws
Statement: There are discernible wine faults, there are also legitimate wine flaws. Wine cleanliness is wine godliness. This notion of the paramount important of cleanness in winemaking is inculcated at…
Wine Controversies: Do Cheap Wines Need to Exist?
Statement: Received commercial wisdom would have us believe that cheap wines are necessary to bring new consumers into the wine-buying market. The argument goes that it is patronising to tell…
Natural Wine Thoughts via Georgia
The other day I was hosting a masterclass on orange wines and opted to commence proceedings with my favourite Niels Bohr quote to the effect that “If quantum mechanics hasn't…
Wine Labelling: The Argument in a Nutshell – Part Two
Continued from Part One... There ain’t no sanity clause? One of the problems with charters is the administrative burden that they levy on individuals. If they are to be worth…
Wine Labelling: The Argument in a Nutshell – Part One
The hoary chestnut roasting on today’s open fire is the thorny thicket of labelling. Part of me fantasises about serving the überinterventionist winemaker with the lengthiest of self-inflicted writs –that…
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