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‘Tween seasons (summer & autumn) bottles

End of summer sounds so final. Like the end of childhood. I always associate September with going back after hols like “the whining school-boy, with his satchel/And shining morning face, creeping like snail/Unwillingly to school.”

We are really hoping for the dividend of extended summer followed by an Indian summer, basking in the still-glory days of warmth and the light, as if sequestering it to release back into one’s being during the dark winter days. Think of the extra rosé sales! Anyhoo, I wax whimsy.

I am slowly moving away from clean and salty whites to ones with more texture; and from pinky and perky rosés to light-to-medium eminently-chillable reds.

Wine wise, I am also trying to extend the feel of summer by drinking wines that are not heavy, although as a concession to August melting into September and spiralling further downwards into October, I am slowly moving away from clean and salty whites to ones with more texture; and from pinky and perky rosés to light-to-medium eminently-chillable reds.

The whites

2022 Face B Savagnin, Les Bottes Rouges

Winemakers Jean-Baptiste Menigoz and Florien Kleine Snuverink are a farm vines (7 ha of them) and ferment low-intervention wines in the heart of Jura’s Arbois region. The grape palette includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Ploussard, Trousseau and, of course, Savagnin, all grown organically and with biodynamic treatments when needed.

‘Face B’ is whole cluster direct-pressed Savagnin that is aged for at least 18 months in old oak barrels on the fine lees before emerging as a gorgeous butterfly. Spun gold with complex aromatic notes of ginger-flecked butter, white flowers and coconut shaving with a mouth full of pear, grapefruit and an array of warmed spices from clove to cumin. This fleshy, well-toned wine tastes like very early autumn dissolved in a glass.

The sheer quality of the wine also made me think about how we tend to fixate on certain regional growers (call it Jurassic snobbery) and place them and their wines onto a pedestal without admitting that other under-the-radar/less-fashionable growers may be producing wines that are even more delicious and at a much more attractive price.

Kelley Fox Willamette Chardonnay, Oregon

Kelley’s 2023 Chardonnay is the third iteration made from a parcel of young vines in the Freedom Hill vineyard. The 2024 will see a marked change in style, being a blend of Durant and Freedom Hill Chardonnays, with concrete amphora and Burgundian barrels creating a different flavours and textures.

Situated in the foothills of the Oregon Coast range near Dallas, Freedom Hill vineyard is technically in the Mt. Pisgah-Polk County AVA, just outside the lines drawn for the Eola Hills AVA. The top producers of Oregon Pinot noir have been making wines of excellence-consistently- from Freedom Hill for decades.

The Bellpine marine sedimentary soil type, the source for this being an ancient seabed, seems to suit white grape varieties (particularly Kelley’s Pinot Blanc) and imbue the wines with their bright urgent acidity.

Although the Willamette Chardonnay is still fermented and matured in stainless steel tank in 2023, it certainly feels very different to the two previous vintages. The nose has hints of vanilla along with creamy tropical fruits, mixed citrus, and soft minerals. These delicious fruits are perfectly balanced by its fresh acidity. The mouth mirrors the nose, and the texture and finish are silky and pleasing. More Mâcon than Chablis if you like.

2023 Furmint Bambule, Judith Beck

I have already decanted this wine in a recent blog post, but just to rehash the main points. 

Furmint, when Burgenland was still part of Hungary, was an important grape variety in the environs of Lake Neusiedl. It was used mainly for the production of sweet wines. After the collapse of the monarchy, the variety fell into oblivion. In 2017,  Judith planted a small vineyard of Furmint, which they considered a very interesting variety because of its marked acid structure. It also had a pronounced aroma and a certain “fieriness”, which is a counterpart to the acidity.

The grapes are hand harvested, destemmed and undergo five days of maceration in open top stainless-steel vat before ambient fermentation in old tonneaux with indigenous yeast and a further period of ageing in used barrels of 500 litres. The wine completes malolactic fermentation and is bottled without filtration, fining or added sulphites.

The Furmint Bambule has vibrant aromas of green apple, quince, and citrus zest, balanced by subtle floral notes and a distinct minerality, culminating in a crisp, refreshing finish that highlights its lively acidity and complexity. 

The wine fits a late summer need for me, capturing adroitly the tension between fleshy x skin fruit, acidity and salinity.

The reds

2023 Les Bottes Rouges Poulsard Tôt ou Tard

Second wine from the camp of Menigoz and Snuverink and here from the much admired Poulsard variety. I am a touch ambivalent about this grape. Often masked by cold carbonic maceration techniques, it can also be a bit weedy and bitter or marked by reduction, yet, in the hands of skilled vignerons it bequeaths a haunting perfume and slivery darts of bright red fruits. In a more technical sense: yum.

The Tôt ou Tard is 100% Poulsard, bottled in May after the vintage. After harvesting, the fruit is destemmed then macerated for three weeks and before ageing in stainless steel tanks. The nose is ripe watermelon and cherry with the merest hint of forest floor, while the palate conveys a balance of acid and fruit accentuated by bitterness and mineral notes. 

The 2023 has a breezy cool-fruited character to it that is quite captivating.

2024 VdF Ribeyrenc, Thierry Navarre

Ribeyrenc, also Rybeyrenc, though grape encyclopaedias will have it under the more prosaic-sounding Aspiran noir), is a variety that was traditionally grown between Minervois and Clermont l’Hérault, but it all but died out with phylloxera and the big frost of 1956. All was not lost, however, as Thierry Navarre’s grandfather had some vines. The cultivar is well adapted to the Mediterranean climate, and intriguingly, it ripens late being picked towards the end of September, usually a recipe for high alcohol, but in this case always a light abv of around 11.5-12%.

Only 7 ha of this now rare grape variety remain in the Languedoc.

Ribeyrenc Noir prefers to be grown in the hills, rather than on the plain. This version derives from vines on south-east facing slopes on slate (brown schist). Yields are a measly 17 hl/ha, farming is organic with herbal preparations. Triage is done in the vineyard and the winery. Thierry does not destem as the skin of the grapes is so thin and fragile. The grapes gently fall into the small cement vats where they ferment. Ageing in cement vats is for 6 months. No oak, naturally.

The wine itself is enchantingly demure. The colour is pale red, the nose has some light perfume (violets and peonies), the palate is very mellow, with some fresh cherry fruit and the merest whisper of garrigue and white pepper. It’s delicious and takes longer to pronounce than to drink.

A lovely red for the late summer and never to be drunk without a decent cooling down period in the fridge.

2023 Vale da Capucha Matacaes Palhete

Neither red, white nor rosé (or perhaps all of them) this Palhete is 70% Arinto (white grape) & 30% Castelão (red grape), indigenous Portuguese grapes are sourced from Capucha’s coastal vineyards, benefiting from the cooling influence of the Atlantic winds. The viticulture here is characterized by minimal intervention, allowing the vines to express their natural character and the nuances of the terroir. Hand-harvesting ensures careful selection of the grapes, preserving their quality.

Capucha employs artisanal winemaking techniques in the winery, including – in this example – co-fermentation of the red and white grapes in stainless steel tanks. This co-fermentation, a defining characteristic of Palhete, is essential for achieving the wine’s characteristic light colour and delicate flavour profile. The wine is then aged in stainless steel tanks, preserving its freshness and fruit-forward character. Minimal sulphur additions are used, reflecting a commitment to natural winemaking practices.

Red fruit aromas abound here such as strawberry, raspberry, and red currant, accompanied by subtle floral and herbal undertones. The co-fermentation with Arinto contributes subtle citrus and white floral notes, adding complexity to the aromatic profile. On the nose, the Palhete also offers subtle vegetal notes, underpinned by mineral and smoky nuances that reflect the limestone-rich soils. The palate is elegant, with an enveloping texture and a refreshing acidity that imparts a gastronomic quality to the wine.. This balance of fruit, minerality, and freshness makes it a versatile companion to various dishes. 

This style of wine is still a popular one in the region as well as being a reminder of what people used to drink over a hundred years ago. Locals preferred a wine that was very light because it was intended to be drunk to kill the thirst whilst working outside under the hot sun. Also known as “Palheto” which is different from “Clarete” which is made with red grapes only.

2024 Bangarang Rouge, Famille Mosse

The jolly Bangarang is more about style than specifics. The blend of grapes from different sources changes according to the year, but the wine is consistently fun and extrovert. This year it as an assemblage of local heroes Cabernet Franc, Grolleau Noir and Pineau d’Aunis grapes that were purchased from their friends. The grapes were hand harvested from certified organic vines that are around 30 years of age from vineyards near the villages of Faye d’Anjou, Bonnezeaux and Beaulieu sur Layon.

The Grolleau was destemmed then macerated for a week to extract some colour, whereupon the juice was transferred to tank for fermentation. The other two grape varieties were directly pressed before going into tank.

The final wine does what it says on the label. Exuberant strawberry and candied red cherry with a dash of Pineau d’Aunis white pepper. Glouglou and then some, but with more than enough interest to keep going until the bottle is demolished. Although for me this wine represents mid-summer frolics and the joys of al fresco dining and drinking, it is also a wine that I will return to up to the autumn equinox.